Egypt Adventure – 15: Syria, Jordan…

(Written: 11-9-08)
Soooo. Now we’re in Syria! The male intern for our group wasn’t allowed into the country because of an Israeli stamp in his passport; he couldn’t get a new one before we left so there was always the possibility it’d end up that way but it still started our stay on a bit of a grumpy note :o(


The first day we went to the Krak de Chevaliers a crusader fortress! It was basically amazing and I want to live there :o) Seriously though, you would never believe how beautiful some of the Syrian countryside is – easy to see why it was fought over. After exploring the castle (featured in the movie Kingdom of Heaven) we went to dinner near the fortress and I would venture to say it was the best meal I’ve had all semester! It was AMAZING! Dad – the chicken….there are not words, only lip-smacking, finger-licking goodness!


Ok, moving right along…

After the castle we drove on to Damascus where we stayed near the Old City. It has been so cool to be in a place that really hasn’t changed much since Biblical times since it’s never been put to siege, etc… The main reference point we used for the city was Straight Street (see Acts 9:11) off of which we also visited what is traditionally held to be the Apostle Paul’s house. The old city has such a great feel to it and has thus far been incredibly restful as we all begin to gear up for our time in Israel.


One of our favorite pastimes has been buying movies in Syria because they are so cheap….yeah – more on that later ;o)


Yesterday we went to a “Hamam” - bathhouse (like a Turkish bath), which was definitely a bonding experience. Other than that it was such a neat experience to undergo bathing/massage/etc as they did most often in ancient times. There was a cold room, warm room, sauna, exfoliation, massage, and lots of laughter and relaxation :o)


(Written: 11-12-08)
Our time spent in Jordan was a random little blurb of about a day and a half most of which we spent at a resort on the dead sea! Craziest sensation I’ve had in a long time – floating with such ease…Basically I was transformed into a superhero :o)
It was gorgeous…



PS – sorry for the rushed feeling of all these blogs!

Egypt Adventure - 15: Istanbul, Turkey...

(Written: 11-11-08)
Well, I am currently sitting in a hotel room in Amman, Jordan but that is not where this story begins. For that, I must jump back 12 days to the day we arrived in Istanbul, Turkey.

What a change in pace! Stepping out of the airport you would think you were in a full-fledged European country and oh how beautiful is the color green!!! As we drove towards the Bosphorus waterfront (our first course of action before heading to the hotel) I felt as if I had entered a state of suspended reality. Gone were the honking cars, trash littered streets, pollution, and barren landscape. Rather, what greeted my starved eyes were cars driving in their own lanes and a beautifully landscaped city rich with a depth that only history can lend! The people also commanded attention, as they all seemed to have newly walked from the pages of a high-end fashion magazine.

Before a dinner of steaming baked potatoes filled with delicious tastes of the region we were ushered to a boat cruise on the Bosphorus in time for the sunset. I can’t even put into words the beauty of the city especially when viewed from the water – it felt like I was in a movie. The numerous mosques in the city with all their minarets and domes seem to have been made with sunset in mind – gorgeous! I’ve never liked a city so much so quickly and believe me, considering my ethnic background I wasn’t totally sure I’d feel comfortable in Turkey at all.
In that first day, I touched down on the continents of Africa, Europe and Asia!(Istanbul spans both the European and Asian continents) You certainly can’t say that every day!

It wasn’t long though before the Armenian issue came up in force and my reaction to it completely blind-sided me. I mean sitting in lectures given by really intelligent people in a context where there’s so much progressive thinking and action to be respected and to have them bold facedly deny any such events or minimize it and distort facts was pretty shocking. One of the hardest moments for me was in a circle of students discussing issues (there were a couple of Turkish university students in the mix also) and the issue came up. Promptly, one of our Turkish hosts denied the events and looking me in the face (probably unintentionally) said “I mean, it didn’t happen. There was no genocide.” That was all I could take and I promptly left the circle and rushed to the bathroom on the verge of tears, totally caught off guard by the strength and emotion of my response. As I’ve thought about it more and as our group has faced these discussions more it has become much easier for me to engage with and I’ve realized that it’s not really an issue of political recognition to me; in fact, in my understanding it would be unwise for the US to continue to press the issue of recognition at this time but what makes me sick is the outright denial of anything ever happening to the point that a Turkish citizen can look me in the face and presume to tell me what did or did not happen to my family. The psychological effect on society of not being able to face your past is no light matter.

There were many fun adventures along the way. One of my favorites was of an afternoon of creating “sensory memories” by walking through the grand Bazzar to get to the Spice market where the sights, smells, and tastes were delightfully overwhelming! After buying legitimate Turkish coffee and being surrounded by the enveloping smell of it I bought and ate (with a friend ;o) Turkish delight – delicious!

Getting out of Cairo and experiencing a different part of the region has been such a breath of fresh air! Particularly in the way a woman is able to engage in the society. It was so nice to feel that I could once again really thrive in my independence, getting around on my own and all that… Also, the differences in leadership, policy, history, etc between Egypt and Turkey are interesting to really get into and probe. The education system in particular intrigues me.

Anyway, obviously this blog can only begin to touch the surface and hardly that at all but I look forward to your questions and more conversations on the issues when I get back since Turkey in particular is such a fascinating country!

Egypt Adventure - 14: getting ready to travel the ME...

(Written: 10-27-08)
The first phase of my semester wrapped up this week which included Arabic final, finals in two of my other classes (Islamic Thought and Practice and Peoples and Cultures), and a Tabla concert for the rest of the students! It was a successful completion of stage 1 and even Tabla wasn’t terrible although the whole idea of performing does NOT thrill me :oP

We are now getting ready to head out on the “travel component” of our semester. We will spend 9 days in Turkey (7 in Istanbul and 2 in Ankara – the capitol), 3 days in Syria (Aleppo and Damascus), 1ish in Jordan (Amman), and 2 weeks in Israel (Jerusalem mainly)… I’m definitely looking forward to it but at this point of exhaustion staring a month of travel in the face with 29 other students, logistics, living out of a suitcase, etc. feels like a drain. We’ll see how things play out - as my mom says I seem to have quite a wanderlust in me and I am sure that once I begin the journey I’ll be thrilled :o) My plan is to do a blog after each country (maybe one for Syria/Jordan), until then – sayiida ma’a salaama!

Egyptian Adventure – 13: meeting Jesus.

(Written: 10-25-08)
Something I’ve been thinking a lot about and decided I want to begin doing (started this morning actually :o) is reading the gospels with new eyes – eyes that focus solely on Jesus, his actions, responses, cares, manner, etc…

Surely this is a “no brainer” but I feel that in the past my emphasis has been on what’s in the stories for me to learn, what’s in a verse for me to lean on, what’s the context and the intellectual side of how that informs my reading and understanding of Christianity. All perhaps worthy pursuits but to some neglect of truly getting to know the character of Jesus. It’s the desire in me to switch from a “me” focused engagement with Christianity and to approach it with an attitude of “Jesus, what was important to you? What will you teach me about the best way to engage in life?”

Some of this interest I think has been prompted from being in a Muslim country where the life of Mohammad to a Muslim is central. They base their daily lives to a large extent on his behavior, sayings, responses, etc. - All that for a man. So why would I do any less for my God?

Egyptian Adventure – 12: Halls of Power.

(Written: 10-24-08)
A couple weeks ago we had the amazing opportunity to go to the Arab League and meet with Hesham Youssef (Chief of the Cabinet of the League’s Secretary General – Amr Moussa). We were very warmly welcomed and had a very informative “conversation” with him.

The other halls of power we visited were in Luxor where the Pharaohs of the New Kingdom built their kingdoms. Among these, Tuthmose III, Queen Hatshepsut, Tutankhamun, Seti I, Ramses II, etc. We visited: Karnak Temple, Luxor Temple, another lesser-known temple (which I have currently forgot the name of but which had exquisite hieroglyphics), and the Vally of the Kings where we entered three tombs and went to look at Hatshepsut’s Temple. For those of you who know my love for history, you can imagine I was soaking up every minute!

Being in Luxor I felt like I was in the Egypt I imagined. The construction of the city of Luxor itself is much more spread out than Cairo, dusty vs. filthy, very closely linked to Pharonic history, on the lush banks of the Nile, etc…That said, the hassling from the salesmen is beyond what you can imagine and CONSTANT. I think we were all somewhat relieved to come back to Cairo.

A theme I’ve been wrestling with at times and to varying degrees while I’ve been here is the feeling that I “fit” – I look the part and can play the part but the cold reality of it is that it’s pretend. I look like an Egyptian and can play that card (I’ve taken to saying that I’m an American with an Egyptian mother because it simplifies things :o) but the truth is I’m not Egyptian my roots are not here. Similarly, at the Arab League I could be comfortable and again “fit” in these halls of power but I left with more of a sense that, for me, politics is not it. Again, I look the part and could act the part of a political figure but I don’t feel the drive it would take to make that happen.

Understanding myself in relation to my experiences has thus been a challenge as I wrestle with why I’m here, and where the responsibility of having all this new information/experiences poured into me will lead. I don’t know.

I do know however that God is faithful and I feel that in subtle ways I’m not even fully aware of he is shaping my mind and my heart for his purposes. One-way I felt this pretty clearly recently was when we had a documentarist show us a new documentary he is working and discuss the issues it focused on with us. The film and his interest pertain to the Israel/Palestine situation. Engaging in that conversation again, after spending much of the semester to this point on other aspects of the region, made me realize that any future involvement I may have in the ME will likely pertain to that issue; because I feel something inside me come alive for it, even if it’s just a broken heart over the seeming futility of the situation. Again, I can only wait and see how God develops this in the near future.

Egypt Adventure – 11: homestays.

(Written: 10-13-08)
Last week, from Sunday night to the following Sunday morning I was living with a Muslim family in an area of Cairo. In short – I loved it :o)

My friend Tara and I were both placed with the same family, which was a pleasant surprise since most of the students were on their own and Tara is a great person to be with in such situations.

My family was made up of Bobba, Momma, (2 Older sons who are working in other regions), Nessma (23yrs old and our “English Speaking” contact), Bessma (15yrs old), Abdu (12 ½ yrs old), and Hela (10yrs old). An aspect that really facilitated how comfortable I felt there was how similar the family was in structure to my own! Mom, Dad, and 6 kids who parallel them in age – what a Blast!

Throughout the week there were so many cultural differences to work with, on both sides I’m sure, and the language barrier was definitely present. That said, I could not imagine a family in this situation being more understanding and willing to meet us more than half way. The language challenge became a game at which we cheered for extensive communication victories and at times just kind of shrugged and let the failure to verbal communicate pass us by. I definitely did learn more Arabic but more importantly I became more comfortable with trying, learning, and listening with the result of hearing their words rather than shutting down in a total panic.

I feel that Enthusiasm is the language of intercultural communication in the ME (probably at any stage but) especially when actual language skills are lacking. In line with this there was a lot of personal effort made in the areas of body language, facial expressions, etc. That said, the most used and necessary phrases of the week were probably: Gameilla awi! (Very Good!), Hellwa giddan! (Very Nice!), Lezeez! (Delicious!), etc…I’m laughing to myself as I write this because even pulling up these phrases brings back so many outrageous stories! I don’t know if it’s just because of my familiarity with ME culture from my own family or what but it was so fun because all the social games we played were extreme versions of stuff I’ve experienced before and so it was familiar enough to make the awkwardness/strangeness of it all hilarious.

There are so many great stories and conversations I could recount but for now I’ll hone in on the Friday following our arrival. Being that it was the weekend we ended up going to a big family Hafla (party) to welcome the arrival of a newborn. In my experience Egyptians are so welcoming, amazingly hospitable, and as enthusiastic a people group as I have yet to meet. This occasion was no different and involved tons of food, lots of being pulled around to “Ohh!” and “Ahh!” over everything, and of course(!) belly dancing! It is the well-kept secret I never knew that EVERY Egyptian woman belly dances and where two or more are gathered there WILL be a dance party. As guests taba’an(of course) we must dance for them :o) Can I just say, absolutely Hilarious! It is like their Olympic sport and they LOVE to have us join in. I really cannot even express in words what it’s like, maybe one day in person we can go over this more, inshaAllah…. :o)

The other love of young girls is make-up (mind you both these things are within the home. The higab comes off and the personality explodes :o). Anyway, one night the neighbor did both of our make up and…wow. Tara ended up with bright red eye-shadow, sparkling pink lips, etc. we were both trying so hard to hold back our hysterics. Then came my turn and to go with my black skirt they started with silver eye-shadow and black liner leaving me to think “hmmm, I think I lucked out here!” Then came the pink blush, and the brightest SPARKLING Purple lip stuff you can imagine! With an Oscar deserving performance of holding it together I took the mirror and exclaimed “Hellwa AWI!” (VERY Nice!!!)

Anyway, this has probably become boring ramblings but suffice it to say that along with these more humorous anecdotes there were some really thought provoking moments as well as self/cultural reflection that I will not soon lose sight of.

How I wish I could better articulate all this! I wish I was sitting before you and able to look you in the eyes and communicate the beauty and intricacy of the lives I had the privilege to intersect with this past week in particular. I love when one begins to understand some of the cultural themes that drive the development of who we become. It’s absolutely fascinating to me.

I will carry on visiting the family, and engaging in the lives I have come to love….
~Salaam

Egypt Adventure - 10: siwa oasis

(Written: 10-8-08)
Most recently we returned from spending two and a half days in Siwa Oasis 11hrs away from Cairo by bus. This was definitely a highlight of my time here so far! If you’ve read the Alchemist – bizopt (exactly)! If not, picture the Sahara Desert (dunes and all) and an expansive oasis of date/pomegranate trees, palm trees, reeds etc. In this oasis there is a village – what you would picture of Egypt in antiquity, this is it. Homes made from mud bricks and dried palm fronds, donkey carts everywhere, once central midan with shops that look like they manifested from the Disney movie Aladdin, etc. The local culture is mainly Berber which is….well, probably best to Google it if you’re interested…

We stayed at a gorgeous “hotel” called the Desert Rose and our group was its sole occupants. They served us breakfast every morning of eggs, bread, cheese, cucumber, tomatoes, shay b-lebin (tea with milk – for me :o), fig jam, etc. The main building (freestanding) was octagonal with one main door leading into a circular courtyard with about 7 rooms leading off it – this is where the girls stayed. From this inner courtyard there was a set of stairs leading up to the roof set with more beds (for sleeping under the stars) and chairs.

I spent the whole of the first day wandering through the village with a couple other MESPers and ironically enough ate some of the best pizza I’ve ever had at a café called Alexander’s Palace. Toward the end of the day we entered a shop where the shopkeeper emphatically explained that he sold antiques – needless to say we were all a little skeptical. Sure enough he brings us over to a couple of large tin buckets filled with junk :o) He explained that many of the items were found in the desert. To my surprise after sifting through I did end up finding some cool stuff. My bartering skills are developing quite nicely –what some call “ruthless” I smile and call sport :o)

Later that night after an evening around the campfire (outside the main hotel building) a group of traditional Berber/Siwan musicians showed up and began to play for us. Every so often one of them would jump into the middle to dance and before long they started pulling some of us up as well. I can now officially say I’ve danced with a Bedouin under the stars and very laughingly but poorly at that!

The next day (Friday) we loaded up in jeeps and headed out to the desert for our Desert “Safari” Adventure! God has a sense of humor because despite the fact that I was one of the more nervous students at the prospect of “hurling off” 10 story high dunes I ended up in the lead car! God knows me though and it turned out for the best and was a Wonderful day :o) After dune-riding for a bit and looking at a fossilized area from where there obviously once was a large body of water we stopped at a place to sandboard (basically snowboarding on sand but with less control). Once we finished boarding we flew down one last dune in order to enjoy a fresh water desert spring as the sun was setting *sigh* really Amazing. That night we stayed at a camp out in the desert and after gazing at the stars for hours I entered the tent and fell asleep to the rhythms of tribal music.

The next morning our jeeps pulled in and we rolled out to pack up and head home - of course that was after one last refreshing dip in the hotel pool (I have never craved to be in water as much as I have in Egypt!)…

Robbina ma’ac
(something akin to “Our Lord be with you”)

Egypt Adventure - 09: Coptic Christian Day, tabla concert, speakers

(Written: 10-6-08)
Some recent activity:

We spent a day with a group of college age Coptic Christians who were such a joy to engage with in both discussion and laughter. Copts are a branch of Eastern Orthodoxy and thus are very similar to Greek orthodox, Armenian orthodox, etc. I really appreciate the simplicity and practicality of their beliefs/traditions and the clarity of conviction they hold because of them.

My tabla teacher, Hany, invited the students in the class to come to a concert he was performing in and several of us went. What an amazing evening! So fun! The music was fantastic and a famous singer from Jordan joined them for a bit lending her captivating vocal undulations to the mix. The concert was later in the evening (because of Ramadan) and the midan (square) where it was held was packed. On one side there was a café with outdoor seating and every once in a while the aroma of strawberry, apricot, or apple sheesha (hookah) would drift by.

All throughout our time here we have been privileged to hear excellent speakers from various career/life backgrounds speak with us on their area of specialty. These are all off the record but suffice it to say that they are enlightening, thought provoking, and fascinating discussions on: religion, the economy, social/political dynamics in Egypt and the region at large, education, etc. I wish I could continue these conversations with so many of you!

Egypt Adventure - 08: a day in the life…

(Written: 9-23-08)

Based on recent inquiries I have decided to provided a short blog regarding “A day in the life”…

7:15 – wake up

7:30 – breakfast

8:15 – devotions

9:00 – Arabic class

10:30 – snack (popcorn that I sometimes add Neutella and Peanut butter to :o)

11:00 – Either: Islamic Thought and Practice or a Guest speaker (depending on the day/week schedule)

1:00 – lunch

At this point in the day I may be done but if it’s Sunday I have another class from 2-4 and if it’s Monday I have Tabla class from 2-4.

Tuesdays I’m at my service project at the Prison from 8:30-3pm.

The evenings are filled with various activities but that’s a skeleton outline.

At the start of each week we get a “Week at a Glance” schedule with all the week’s specifics and variations.

I live in a flat on the 5th floor of a building with an elevator that most often doesn’t work, with 7 other girls. I share a room with 2 other girls, Cassi and Sarah.

Life is life and it is filled with many conversations, frustrations, and laughter.

Egypt Adventure - 07: alexandria.

(Written: 9-21-08)

Alexandria. What a breath of fresh air - Literally and figuratively! It’s a beautiful city especially when compared to the crowded, dirty, and pollution filled atmosphere of Cairo. I am generally not a city lover (at least for long term living) and so living in a city as populated and “developing” as Cairo at times takes its toll. Alex is simply laid out, constantly has a pleasant breeze from the Mediterranean, is much less crowded, and more family friendly.

About a week ago myself and a few others met a young Egyptian woman (evangelical Christian) while going to the Prison on our service project. As it turns out she, Nancy, lives in Alexandria and told us to contact her once we arrived and she would show us around.

Friday morning we arrived by train in Alex, 2hrs from Cairo, and 4 of us met up with Nancy and her brother Mokhles who graciously took us all over the city. It was so nice to see the city with people who know and love it – what a gift! After walking around for several hours we were invited back to their house where we met their mother and father and were treated royally. I loved being able to enter inside the culture a bit more as we entered the home and we able to engage in conversations, meal sharing, and laughter. The three MESP students that had been along for the journey were traveling back to Cairo that night while I had planned to stay an extra day and meet up with the larger group. However, Nancy graciously offered for me to stay the night with them and I happily agreed.

I felt completely welcomed, taken care of, and provided for. That night while Nancy was packing (the next day she was embarking for Denmark to study!) I went out with Nahed, her mother, to pick up some last minute things for the trip. Between my Arabic and more so her English(!) we laughed and had an enjoyable time bustling around a marketplace.

Once we got back and Nancy had finished packing we were able to talk and share about life and God stuff. What a Blessing!

The next morning her father, Magdy, took me to the library since we didn’t have the chance to visit the day before. What a treat! Even though it’s not the original it truly is a work of art and I loved being surrounded by so many books! Mr. Magdy took very good care of me. After I finished with the library he met me and took me to the train station where I was to meet up with one of the groups heading back to Cairo. We arrived slightly early though and so wandered through a marketplace where I bought some “shiip-shiip” (house shoes).

On the train ride back I had many things to process and think about in regards to differing social and church cultures (as displayed by the Asal family as compared to my culture).

I feel incredibly blessed by the serendipitous events of the weekend and humbled by the Asal Family’s hospitality and care. It’s good to remember how much I have to learn as well as how much I have to share…

Peace.

Egypt Adventure – 06: football game, miscellaneous life.

(Written: 9-18-08)
Anyway, moving along. We got back to Agouza late Saturday night from Dahab which means the next day, Sunday, was the start of a new week (not gonna lie, it was a challenge to not have any actual down time to get caught up on stuff for the week).


That night we went to the “Football”(Soccer) stadium in Cairo and watched two Cairo teams (Ahlay and Zamalek) duke it out for the African League Trophy (I’m pretty sure that’s how it worked anyway :o) Basically they’re the two best teams in Africa and happened to be playing each other in Cairo and let me tell you, loyalties run deep here :o) We arrived three hours early (it was a 10pm game so the players could break fast and get ready for the game) and even then the fans were going crazy! It was pretty intense – 60,000 Egyptian men, fireworks (smuggled in?), banners, chants, etc…The energy is incomparable and hard to describe…

Monday I had my second Tabla class – so fun! Especially since we were all way beyond tired and slap-happy :o) Never-the-less we seemed to make some progress and had a lot of fun while doing it…

Tomorrow we’re headed up to Alexandria! I plan to spend Friday “touring” and Saturday on the Mediterranean getting caught up on reading.

One of the more challenging aspects of the semester is balancing school with the larger experience. There are so many lectures we’re hearing, experiences, learning Arabic, etc and then on top of that to think about reading and writing papers is definitely not linked up in my mind. I’m really trying to find that balance right now, knowing I won’t do it perfectly and need to weigh pros and cons of choices (ie spending the weekend in Alex)…All the ideas and questions we are being exposed to can certainly cause tension as I try to filter out my opinions, truth, clarity, etc…this will be a constant struggle this semester but well worth it as insight and clarity does come…

Some miscellaneous life tidbits:

All our apartments are equipped with bidets which is…a new experience :o) we also can’t flush toilet paper down the toilet (hence the bidet and the trashcan next to the toilet - this is my roommate Cassi’s “greatest hardship” ;o)

Our washing machines are all manual where you have to fill in the water, line dry, and all that (but it’s not manual in the sense of hand washing – it could always be worse right?? ;o)…

Double parking is illegal in Cairo but everyone does it since there’s not enough parking. So the rule of the game is to double park but to leave your car in neutral so people can push it out of the way when need be.

A couple of weeks ago I went out for desert with one of the program interns and some of her Egyptian friends and the guys that ended up coming lit up their cigarettes right at the table. It’s SO common to have people smoking in Cairo but coming from generally smoking free and health conscious California it’s the strangest thing to be sitting at a table in a Restaurant and have people light up.

I can’t continue this blog without making note again of how grateful I am to the Lord for the love he lavishes on me especially when it comes through people! I know it’s quite a fiasco to be in touch with me due to sketchy internet connections and such but, wow. My heart is so full, I am so blessed – thank you for making the effort :o)

Everything is beginning to blur so I think I’ll leave off here and try to stay on top of this a little more frequently so as not to bombard you!

Maa’ Salaama!

Egypt Adventure – 05: sinai and dahab.

(Written: 9-16-08)
It blows my mind how much has happened since I last blogged! Life right now is constantly over-stimulating, which is a challenge. That said, the opportunities I have are truly AmaZing! This blog will hit some of the main points of the last couple weeks or so. (Note: Weekends here for us consist of Friday and Saturday with Sunday acting as out Monday. The country usually only gets Friday off)…

Ok, last Friday I saw the sun rise over Mt. Sinai and saw it set from the Sea of Aquaba (sp?…aka the Red Sea, aka the Sea of Reeds :o)!

Here’s how it went - Last Thursday night we boarded a bus and drove 7 hours through the night to Mt. Sinai where we de-boarded and climbed the mountain in time for sunrise!

Some of you may know I LOVE stars – what a feast for my soul! I have never seen so many stars – Breathtaking! My heart was so Full! I had such a strong desire to praise the Lord and never have I felt at such a loss to do that – I sincerely wish I had memorized a dozen psalms to be able to recite…But even then – who am I when faced with the Majesty of God?? I am so small and so empty…that was abundantly clear… The silence of the night was beautiful. I started playing a game with the Lord of how many shooting stars I could see – I counted 16 although I have a suspicion that I missed a few more….

For a number of reasons (mainly because I wanted to!) I rode a CAMEL up most of the way! A decision I would never regret – it was truly amazing! My first glimpse of a real camel in the Middle East was walking through a pitch black night hoping not to fall when all of a sudden I look up and there emerging from the darkness 4 camels towering over me (generally not hard to do but still impressive!)!!! Thankfully I saw them in time to move out of the way! I loved riding it too! I mean, don’t get me wrong, it’s not as nice or smooth as a Lexus but I took to it pretty quick, a talent I attribute to the Jemel-ian in me :o)

There comes a point on the Mt. where camels can no longer go and that is The Stairs of Penance. Aka the stairs from hell to get to heaven! Ok that’s a little dramatic but it was ironic going up the stairs of penance – my attitude certainly gave me reason to repent ;o)

I understand and appreciate the experience more in retrospect as I think about it and look at pictures. In the moment it’s incredibly hard to take it in. How do you process something like I am climbing Mt. Sinai?? and watching the sun rise as I look out over a breathtaking Sinai landscape in the morning light with people from all over the world around me singing praises to God … teach me how to fully appreciate that in the moment and I will marvel at your wisdom :o)


After climbing down we traveled a couple of hours to a place called Dahab. SO fun! Imagine something like the mountainous desert landscape of PalmSprings as far as the eye can see and behind you the Red Sea (Sea of Aquaba). Beyond that you can see Saudi Arabia! Basically it’s an understated diamond in the rough – a hippie resort town…Love it! It’s funny how much beach culture is the same…like I said, that first night I watched the sun set from my vantage point in the Sea looking back to the shore where there’s nothing except desert and mountains. Beautiful.

After that some of us walked the “boardwalk” and decided to have some desert at one of the cafes. Ok, these are no ordinary cafes – they were all open air and all right on the Sea. The seating consists of picturesque mounds of pillows rugs and low tables – I loved that aspect! For desert we had warm baklava with ice cream and some other desert consisting of cocoanut, almonds, ice cream, caramel, etc – all baked and warm – SOO good :o) (NOTE: as this may begin to indicate to those worried I might not be eating well – there’s no need to fear! Actually the other night for dinner I ate some Sheesh Kofta – the meat thing formed by squishing around a chop stick – anyway, SOOOOOOO good and it felt like a bit of home :o)

The next day in Dahab we all headed out along the coast in Jeeps (shockless jeeps I might add) and went snorkeling! CRAZY! I must admit since it was my first time that figuring out the whole breathing underwater thing definitely had my gag reflexes in full gear but I eventually got the hang of it and it was so much fun! So much life right below the surface that I never even consider.
To all my sibs: I wished you were there SOOO much! We would have had a blast! We will all come back :o)

Egypt Adventure – 04: from the balcony.

(Written: 9-4-08)
I was just standing out on our balcony (nothing glamorous just a 2ft by 20ft space) and it’s turning into a beautiful evening. We’re 5 floors up (really 6 because they count the “1st” floor as “0”) which means there’s a nice breeze right now. I can hear the call to prayer coming from somewhere off to my right and it’s an interesting time in Cairo (more imminently for me in Agouza) because this month is Ramadan. For us this generally means trying not to eat or drink in front of people (since most everyone here is Muslim) it also means that as I’m looking out on the street all is still as everyone is inside waiting to “break fast.” The stillness is not hollow but rather seems to be filled with the richness of the culture in the smallest manifestations and impressions: a solemn presence of prayer in this season, the smell of Shwerma riding on the breeze, the flow of fabric hanging on lines, and the stories each balcony I look down upon seems to impress upon me.

There are so many lessons in this place and I know than in my time here I may begin to peek at some but as for the rest, I am content to feel them on the breeze and develop a cohabitation with them unexplained but daily influencing my experiences.

In striving to seek the truth it seems to flee from me but to sit and wait upon the Lord brings clarity and understanding beyond any I could seek to develop.

Egypt Adventure – 03: garbage city, monastery in moquattam.

(Written: 9-2-08)
The other day we visited the American University in Cairo (AUC) and it was fascinating to observe the young educated elite of Egypt and to glimpse an inkling of the future. Almost everyone I saw on the campus seemed western (most of the girls looked like they could be on the streets of California – minus shorts/miniskirts). The idea of blossoming progressivism was certainly evident there as it is in many elements of Egyptian society. It is challenging to recognize the cohabitation of the double standards, which pervade Egyptian society.


Yesterday was probably my favorite day so far! We went to an area of Cairo called Garbage City, which is where many of the Coptic Christians live. Here they have created an economy off of garbage: collecting it, recycling it, salvaging items, etc…We began by visiting an Orphanage there where I spent about 45 minutes cuddling babies! What a gift for my heart. As soon as we walked in there were little hands reaching up to us eager for any touch and affection. Ah! When I encounter such an open “love need” in children it’s as if I cease to be “Kaeli” and become rather a door from which I feel the Lord’s love, compassion, and heart gush through me and onto these precious little faces. They become my whole focus and reason for being, all I desire is for them to know that they are loved.


The experience of being in a city almost entirely composed of Christians was really amazing as well! The spirit in the air was different and I found myself energized and joyful throughout the day (probably aided by my experience with the babies). We walked through the narrow garbage filled streets and up to the Moqattam, a Coptic Monastery.


The Monastery is set in the hills and a man has been commissioned to carve religious scenes and depictions into the mountain. To date, he has completed 66 and is working on another. One in particular I found incredibly moving. It is a carving high on the mountain of Jesus in the clouds; arching above him in both Arabic and English are the words, “WILL SEE THE SON OF MAN COMING ON THE CLOUDS WITH GREAT POWER AND GLORY… Mk 13:26” There’s something so powerful about this proclamation carved into a mountain in a Muslim country. I can’t even express the power and beauty of it in words.

Our guide around the Moqattam was Adel – so kind! He began speaking with me in Arabic (the blessing and curse of my physical appearance :o) so with the help of Dr. Holt (my program’s director) we explained that I’m American-Armenian (he continued to insist I look Egyptian). Despite the language barrier, we built camaraderie and had several mini-conversations. First he explained there are 3 things that cross language: “One, Amen. Two, Hallelujah…Ok? One? Amen. Two? Hallelujah. And Three?? Coco-Cola!!” As we walked he taught me the word for monkey “girds” (or something like that!) and I shared a little about our families. It was so encouraging to feel engaged with the culture through him and to feel connected home in a way by his warmth and Middle Eastern affection. Anyway, there is a lot that could be said about all this but I’ll leave it at that for the sake of length…


Entering Agouza I walked down streets I used to feel were cramped, dirty, and impoverished but coming back from Garbage City I feel as though I live in luxury. It’s amazing what the smallest tweak in perspective can do.


Today (Tuesday) was my first day going to my “service project” one of the main features of our time here in Cairo. My project is organized through a church and we (there’s 5 of us from MESP) go to a low security prison and spend time with some of the English speaking Christian prisoners. All of the men we meet with are serving a 20 year sentence for being associated with drugs in some way. Daniel, the man I spent the time talking with has already served 18 years and his wisdom, faith, and simplicity of religion is inspiring.


The whole day was full of fascinating observances of the Egyptian security infrastructure as well as the life of these Christians in prison (they can be open about their faith and even meet several times a week!). We did not go through any aspect of the process to get in or get out of the prison without the organizers we were with paying off guards to smooth the way – the system is open, shameless, and expected – A really fascinating play of authority to watch. Overall, it was an awi (very) positive experience and I had a lot to digest as we left. Afterwards, I found myself feeling unsettled but through journaling and talking it out I realized the source stemmed from me rather than any outward circumstance I had encountered. The reason I felt uncomfortable/disconcerted was because the subconscious barriers I’d like to have in place cannot exist in the face of how connected we all are in the human experience. Guards, Prisoners, Foreigner, Local, Searcher, the one being Searched, Male, Female, etc. I bumped up against some things in me which aren’t too pretty but coming to recognition of the source and seeing these things in the light was such a necessary reminder. A reminder of how much subconscious baggage I carry with me, which puts up complete blocks to communication since I am inclined to react to it from places of fear.


There are times when I feel I glimpse the work God is doing in me and my heart’s prayer is, “Lord, I believe, help my unbelief…” He is faithful…


PS – in the monastery we sang the Doxology, which was music to my spirit as I have come to Love it ever since going to Gordon. It takes me back to great memories of times at Gordon and of absorbing the presence of God in Catacombs (a weekly worship service there)…

Egypt Adventure – 02: initial thoughts/experiences (mosque, nile, khan al-kahalili, scavenger hunt…)

(Written: 8-30-08)
I’ve been here for three full days, which may not seem like much but feels like forever! First off, the heat is unbelievable. My hopes of a dry heat have been totally unrealized and it seems that when I’m not in my air-conditioned apartment (praise God for that!) or in the villa (where we take classes) it seems there is not a part of me that is not radiating heat! I praise God for the amazing ability to adjust…

Before coming, I don’t think I realized how much Egypt is still a developing country. I’m not entirely sure what I expected but the pains that come when a country is in transition are apparent. Cairo has a population at any given time of 17-20 million people 40% of which live on less than two dollars a day (that figure would be considered modest). I live in a nicer area but in general there is a completely different standard of living and rhythm of life to get used to which at first was a little unnerving but is becoming more and more comfortable with each passing day. It is simultaneously a simple land and people with traditional modes of living and a burgeoning city with all the chaos of unregulated modernity (i.e. picture 3 lane road: 5 cars/minibuses across, bikers, motorcyclists [some carrying mother, father, and three children], etc all converging on the streets at once)…

At this point I feel that Egypt, at least Cairo, would probably be a hard place to visit unless you know some language or are doing a strictly touristy agenda. Much of the outer culture (ie heat, traffic, rights, smells, attitudes, etc) can be a little abrasive at first but the people really are amazing once you know them a bit and I am certainly not an expert in this area! I love the culture and thanks to my background there are some comforting links home.

Every day challenges a new comfort level! I’m sure this won’t stop throughout my whole semester especially since I just signed up to take a “Tabla” class (traditional Egyptian drumming)! I’m really excited (here’s a Shout-Out to you Mom for that!) and also nervous since my rhythmic skills are not something I generally view as being in existence…but how could I pass up the opportunity?? Clearly I could not! Especially since it’s taught by a premier Egyptian artist (or so I hear ;o)…It’s not a cake-walk but for better or worse here I am so bring it on!
Yesterday we met a woman, Eman (Emy) who helped to veil us since we were going to a mosque. She is Somalian but was born in Egypt and what a joy! SO full of life and laughter! She insisted that I was Egyptian and proceeded to refer to me simply as “Egyptian” for the rest of the day (when I did tell her my name she laughed and said, “Kali?? It’s like Kali(Curly) Hair!!!”)

Last night we rode a “fluka”(?) along the Nile! (It’s weird to even type that!) After that we went to the tourist center “Khan Khalili” and as a group sat at a café and did Sheesha/hookah/water pipe in order to “get it out of our system” since from here on out it’s off limits. What a fun experience! The atmosphere is unbeatable: a Mosque behind me and to the left, bazaar streets in every direction, thousands of people, vendors calling out “I don’t know what you need, but I have what you want!”, etc…like I said, hard to beat :o) At the café I also ordered hibiscus juice which was DELICIOUS. Walking around was a particularly good experience for me since it is generally assumed that I am Egyptian so they hassle me less and I just pass by saying, “La, Shokran” (“No, Thanks”)…The guys I was walking with were repeatedly told (in reference to me), “You are a lucky man.” We all got a good laugh over comments like those! I should always live in Egypt with such comments! ;o)

Because I am mostly assumed to be Egyptian I am harassed a lot less than some of the other (more American looking) girls. It makes me glad that some of you ladies reading this that are dear to my heart are not here right now because I would hate for you to have to be exposed to that minority of culture. Once I am more on top of my Arabic I’ll bring you and that will be better they bother you less when you’re with a “local” ;oP Even so I behave along strict gender norms which is a strange but necessary concept to get used to.

Today’s main event was a scavenger hunt around our neighborhood! I will admit I was not thrilled when they told us about it and I definitely felt uncomfortable heading into the experience (we were in pairs of 2) but the whole event turned out to be a very positive experience. I was paired with Jason Towes (a guy I know from Gordon) and together we set out on an adventure which included but was not limited to: buying a fruit or veggie from an open air stall that you’ve never seen before and asking it’s name in Arabic, taking a taxi, crossing the street (sounds like no big deal but let me tell you it WAS!), finding an Internet Café and asking how much it cost, asking for directions, etc. I learned a lot and gained a lot of confidence in getting around – no small thing!

I really am grateful for all the staff. They’ve been extremely helpful especially since I have started this trip out sick. I also feel that they are doing an excellent job at acclimating us to the culture/putting us in situations to build our confidence while providing space for us to process all the adjustments we’re running into.

As with any adjustment there are still things that making me uncomfortable and the ways of life to adjust to seem never-ending but God is so gracious, truly…


MaSalemah (goodbye) and I’ll post again “soon” Insha’ Allah (God willing)…

Egypt Adventure – 01: i’m leaving on a jet plane.

(Written: 8-27-08)
It is presently 4:39 in Los Angeles, 6:39 in Houston, 7:39 in Washington D.C., 1:39 a.m. in Frankfurt Germany, and 2:39 a.m. in Cairo, Egypt the final destination. This marks my journey starting at 1a.m. local Los Angeles time on Tuesday the 26th. I am currently somewhere over the Atlantic Ocean on my way to Frankfurt where 28 of the 30 Middle East Studies Program participants will board our connecting flight to Egypt where we are set to arrive at 2p.m. on Wednesday afternoon. These are the facts. Now for the real journey…

It’s been a whirlwind preparation this last week double checking lists, shopping, and making serious efforts to pack light (God seriously tapped his sense of humor when he created me with a love for travel considering my Packing Personality!). The arrival of my nephew, making me a first time aunt, added to the sweep of chaos but in a beautiful heart-warming way I can’t wait to come back and kiss his chubby cheeks!…
With this glimpse of scattered preparations you may imagine my increasing difficulty to engage emotionally with the imminent reality of moving to a foreign country for the next 3 ½ months. I had processed so much for so long that it all began to blur and numb until a divine encounter/wake-up call came on Monday night (right before I left). For some months I’ve been on the emailing list of a woman named Cindy who lives with her husband in Israel where they live out a passion for the people, the land, and for hearts to experience the tender touch of Jesus. As it turns out they were speaking on Monday at a location near where I live. As they shared authentically about their experiences the Lord reminded me what this whole experience is about for me. Yes, it is a great opportunity. Yes, this is the best time of my life to take off for a foreign country for 3 months. Yes, it fits perfectly with my major. All this and more is true of this experience I am embarking on but that is not enough to set my heart fully to rest. The truth however is enough for me to say, “Ok, Lord! Let’s do this!”

For whatever God-given reasons I am drawn to these places, people, and cultures and my going has only ever been about his agenda not mine. For me to be a clear pitcher – a vessel for his joy and captivating personality and promises to pour out and fill the people I meet making them hungry for the living water he offers…I am most alive as he pours through me. When it stops being about what I’m getting out of any situation and becomes about me engaging in the life around me without fear then I am alive not merely living. This is in no way a permission slip to be unwise or culturally insensitive but oh how the pressure lifts when I remember I’m on God’s plan and that I don’t have to “make” (as if I could!) this experience any grand romanticized adventure. For me to effervescently and joyfully live!
I am forever grateful for this redirection of my focus. For the first time in months my heart is at peace about why I’m going. Why I’m leaving comfort, stability, friends, family. What’s it all for? For his kingdom to be more fully realized as I allow myself to be impacted by his image manifest in the people of the Middle East and in my willingness to let go of “self” and let Him move me into position and flow through me.

So here I am sitting in one of the middle seats a row of four on a Lufthansa plane ready for what comes next because it is not about me but about being willing to accept the gift the Lord has given of allowing me to intersect with a new circle of people loved and delighted in by him.

Here is where it physically begins but I know that all this was set in motion long before I even thought it might be a “good idea."

Welcome!

I have created this blog as a way for family and friends to stay connected with my experiences this next year as I engage in life abroad! I will spend August 27th-December 11th based in Cairo but also traveling, political conditions permitting, to Turkey, Syria, Jordan, and Israel. I will then return to the states for Christmas and a visit to friends in at Gordon (in Boston) after which I will fly to Israel from January 29th to ?. If you are interested in receiving my updates then Subscribe to this blog and every time I post a new note it will send you an email notification. I would like to close with a HUGE thank you to all who have supported me in this endeavor with time, words, prayer, thought, enthusiasm, hugs, etc. I really could not be making this trip with nearly as much calm if it weren’t for the wellspring of love and community, distant and near, that you all are sending me with. Thank you!